I almost hit the wall.
I really almost did. We were on
an evening train back to Toledo from Madrid after a weekend that involved
mountains and valley of emotion and I almost hit the wall. And that frustrates me—that it’s even
possible to have negative thoughts after being blessed with the ability to experience
things such as the Museo del Prado.
(Note: The Museo del Prado. Spanish artists, like regular Spaniards, are
not afraid to express themselves. There
is something violent about the romance of Spain that comes through in every
aspect of their existence. My literature
professor talks about how Spaniards, historically have the gana to fight, stemming from eight centuries of fighting and
defending their land, religion, spirit, and culture from Muslim invaders. Their
language always sounds angry, their gaze intense, bereft of any sort of sugar
coat, even when meeting someone for the first time. There is nothing gentle about a
Spaniard. There is nothing gentle about
the intentionality of a Spanish artist.
The first painting to strike me was a 16th century work which
depicted Judas leaning over Christ carrying his cross. A crazed, terrifying, thyroid-eyed
Judas. He was not pleasant to look at. El Bosco’s image of hell sending chills up my
spine. All culminating at Velásquez’s
Christ Crucified. A black
background. An almost three dimensional
luminous body. A bowed head. A throb of guilt. Wow. It
came to me, during that visit to the Prado, that the Spanish are my kind of
people. They are not afraid to be and
show exactly who they are, even if it means failing to conform to social
norms. El Bosco’s 16th
century works look more like they belong with Dali’s imaginative surrealism and
El Greco’s distinct style and soft interpretation far predate his time. At the same time, they maintain an objective
beauty. They’re all weird, but beautifully weird. Not weird for the sake of being weird, but
weird because it’s strange. Strange and
familiar at the same time. There is a sense of feeling like I’m
exactly where I need to be. But I guess that’s kind of rare. Continue to main part of blog post).
But it did happen—that same panicky feeling of absolute
non-belonging I will always associate with my first semester of college. Bonafide culture shock. Even the presence of my own mother and Older
Sister couldn’t help me shake it. Who is
this Denise whose confidence is shaken? Who doesn’t know her way around a city?
Who can’t convey anything she wants to—her gratitude towards her host family,
her excitement that her real family’s coming, her love of the beauty of Toledo—because
her words are simply insufficient? Who can hardly participate in the Mass or
reflect upon the homily? Not the Denise I know—and that’s terrifying.
It took a few things
to help my frustrated stomach settle.
Laughter and talk of love and life and the future over a couple pitchers
of sangria may have helped. The best
octopus I have ever tasted—Pulpo de la Gallena—induced a couple tranquil
breathes. Having a couple bottles of water and
realizing it wasn’t, in fact, impending depression but rather week-long dehydration (water fountains aren’t a thing in
Spain) causing me to crave sleep as if I hated my waking hours—yeah that helped.
And then, finally, just what I needed—stumbling upon a perpetual
adoration chapel. Walking in, kneeling,
bowing my head. Looking up ten minutes
later to see embroidered on the mantel on which the Blessed Sacrament reted: “Yo
estoy con vosotros todos los dias” I am
with you always.
It’s good to know that Spanish God is just about exactly the
same as English speaking God.
I mean, just imagine it in real life. Actually, don't. It wouldn't do it justice.
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